Edelbrock Frequently Asked Questions

First off, make sure the correct size, (cfm) carburetor is installed on the engine and be sure the idle mixture screws are properly adjusted (see page 6 of the Owner's Manual). You can always make your carburetor leaner, but this will not always improve gas mileage. Since every engine is different, there is no way of knowing how much of an affect leaning down the carburetor will have on your engine. You can refer to your carburetor owners manual and the calibration chart inside to lean down the carb. Start off light, but keep an eye on the plugs to make sure you aren't taking it too lean. You will see on the chart that you can lean the carburetor down in different percentages in different modes, cruise and power.

There is no "pre-determined" combination of rods and jets for any given motor, except for altitude corrective applications, which is 4% for every 3,000 ft of elevation. Every engine is going to require a different fuel curve. The best thing to do is run the carburetor on the engine right out of the box to build a baseline, then check the spark plugs and see how they look. You need to have a light brown, or tan color on the plugs. If they are too white or too black, you need to make adjustments, refer to the tuning chart in your carburetor owners manual. Plug reading gives you an accurate idea of what is actually taking place inside the combustion chamber. Please note, today's re-formulated fuels can leave a lack of accurate colorization. Purchase carburetor replacement parts online.

Fuel in the oil can be caused by several conditions including a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm, incorrect fuel line hook-up, and carburetor flooding. If the problem is carb flooding, check the following: Fuel pressure should not exceed 6.5 psi. Float level should be verified to be at 7/16. Refer to supplied carburetor owners manual. Verify needle & seats are free of any debris, and have a smooth range of operation and travel. Verify floats are free of any fluid by shaking the float, or submersing it in a safe, non flammable fluid.

This may be caused by a rip or tear in a base gasket, air horn gasket, or adapter gasket or some foreign material stuck in an air passage of the carburetor. Inspect the gaskets to make sure you have no vacuum leaks of any kind. Check to make sure carburetor is seated correctly, and is fastened with the correct hardware. You can perform a quick check to find external vacuum leaks (such as a leaky carb base gasket) by spraying starting fluid on suspected areas while the engine is idling. If the engine speed changes for a second or two after you spray an area of the carb, you've found the leak.

Check for correct choke operation and adjustment. Make sure that the fast-idle cam is not causing this. Verify the throttle arm rests on the idle speed screw. It is important to verify throttle linkage, and or throttle blades are not binding and have a free range of operation. Throttle return spring should be correctly located and adjusted. In most cases, the return spring should be positioned on the top of the throttle arm forward. This should have been confirmed when the Wide-Open Throttle test was performed during the initial installation of the carburetor. Make sure all of the vacuum ports on the carburetor are being utilized or blocked off.

The 1406 is calibrated lean for fuel economy. In some applications, re-calibration of the carburetor may be necessary for optimum performance. See page 22-23 in the supplied carburetor owners manual. Step # 23 on the calibration reference chart is a good starting point for enriching the air/ fuel mixture.

All of our Performer Series and AVS carburetors feature the PCV port on the front center of the carburetor; it can only be used for PCV. The fuel inlet is on the passenger side rear of the carburetor. Incorrect installation of the fuel line can cause severe engine damage.

The Electric choke on our Performer Series and AVS carburetors needs to be hooked to a "keyed" (while the key is in the on position) 12-volt power source, with a good ground. Verify there is no voltage when the key is in the off position. Do not connect the positive wire to the Ignition Coil, ballast resistor or Alternator.

Carburetor flooding can be cause by the following conditions. First, verify, with a fuel pressure gauge that the pressure does not exceed 6.5 psi. Floats should be set to the factory spec of 7/16, (see carburetor owners manual). Needles & Seats can be clogged with debris, not allowing them to close. They can be cleaned and checked when the float level is being verified. Floats can be sinking due to a leak. Verify floats are free of any fluid by shaking the float, or submersing it in a safe, nonflammable fluid.

We do not recommend routing the PCV line to the rear of the carburetor. We recommend that the PCV line go to the front, if you have power brakes, they go to the rear.

Both Idle mixture screws on the front of our Performer Series and AVS carburetors control air/fuel mixture at idle. The left screw controls the left venturi and the right screw controls the right venturi. Refer to your carburetor owners manual to properly tune the idle mixture.

Generally the distributor vacuum line goes to the timed (pass side of carburetor) port. This is mandatory on emission controlled applications.

An incorrect float level can cause this to occur. Make sure that the float levels are set properly at 7/16" per the carburetor owners manual. Excessive fuel pressure can also contribute to this condition.

Too much fuel pressure usually causes this and often times dirt in the float bowls can do the same. Make sure your fuel pressure does not exceed 6.0 psi, optimum pressure is 5.5 psi.

There are many different circumstances that would cause fuel to leak out of a carburetor. Below are a few reasons why you may see a fuel leak along with some possible solutions.

• Fuel pump pressure is too high. The fuel pump pressure should be no more than 6.5 p.s.i.
• Take the top of the carburetor off and check for debris in the needle & seat, also inspect the needle tip to be sure it has not been compromised.
• While the float is off, shake the float for any signs of fuel in the float. If there is fuel in the float replace float.
• Check float level, the float level should measure 7/16”. Measure the float level by turning the carb lid upside down and placing a 7/16” drill bit between the airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float just past the inboard float radius.
• With today’s fuels, another cause of leaking fuel could be heat soak. Heat soak is when the heat from the engine compartment heats up and can boil the fuel in the float bowls. When this happens, the fuel can get forced through the venturi booster and drip into your engine. This can also cause fuel leaks through the airhorn gasket.

If the choke is not opening all the way this is usually caused by either a misadjusted choke or improper voltage supply. The best time to set your choke is in the morning when the engine is cold and the outside temps are on the lower side. With no power supply to the choke hit the throttle, the choke should close and you should have about an 3/16” gap between the choke valve and the airhorn. If your choke is out of adjustment just loosen the 3 choke cap screws and rotate the black choke thermostat until you achieve a 3/16” gap (counter clockwise leaner). If you must adjust the choke be sure to hold the throttle lever open about a ¼ of the way. This will ensure that the fast-idle cam is out of the way and will not interfere with your adjustment. If the choke is adjusted properly and it still will not open fully, you may have a problem with the voltage supply to choke. The choke needs a key-on 12 volt power source. This means it is necessary to have 12 volts while engine is running and no power when the engine is off. With the wire disconnected from the choke check to be sure you have 12 volts when the key is on. If not find a new power source. Do not connect the positive wire to the Ignition Coil, ballast resistor or Alternator.

There are many reasons why your idle mixture screws do not affect the engines idle, this is usually caused from a flooding condition. Below are a few circumstances that may cause your idle mixture screws to not function properly along with some possible solutions.

• Be sure you have no vacuum on the timed port on the front of the carburetor (passenger side vacuum port). If you have vacuum on this port then the throttle blades are open to much. This will cause the idle mixture screws not to function as you are now pretty much out of the idle circuit and the primaries are feeding the engine with fuel. To correct this the throttle blades must be closed more, so you will need to adjust your idle speed screw until there is no vacuum on the timed port. If your engine is now idling to low in some cases you can advance your timing to bring engine speed back up. Also for non-emissions use you can run your distributor vacuum advance to the full vacuum port on the driver’s side front of the carburetor.
• Fuel pump pressure is too high. The fuel pump pressure should be no more than 6.5 p.s.i.
• Take the top of the carburetor off and check for debris in the needle & seat, also inspect the needle tip to be sure it’s not compromised.
• Take the carburetor lid off and remove the floats. Shake the float for any signs of fuel in the float. If there is fuel in the float replace float.
• Check float level, the float level should measure 7/16”. Measure the float level by removing the lid and turning lid upside down. Then place a 7/16” drill bit between the airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float just past the inboard float radius.

The top hole closest to the pivot point will give you the biggest pump shot of fuel. The bottom hole furthest away from the pivot point will give you a smaller pump shot of fuel. Making these adjustments can be a great way to fine tune your off idle performance.

At an idle you should never see any moving fuel at all. The fuel delivered to the engine at an idle is delivered below the primary throttle blades so you can’t see the fuel at an idle. If you are seeing any fuel at an idle then you are dealing with a flooding condition. Below are the things to check to resolve a flooding condition.

• Fuel pump pressure is too high. The fuel pump pressure should never exceed 6.5 p.s.i.
• Take the top of the carburetor off and check for debris in the needle & seat, also inspect the needle tip to be sure it’s not compromised.
• Take the carburetor lid off and remove the floats. Check the float for any signs of fuel in the float. If there is fuel in the float replace float.
• Check float level, the float level should measure 7/16”. Measure the float level by removing the lid and turning lid upside down. Then place a 7/16” drill bit between the airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float just past the inboard float radius.

A ticking sound from the carburetor would be caused by the metering rod step-up piston assembly hitting the metering rod over plates. The only way this would happen normally is due to the engines vacuum being at or near the same as the rating of the step-up spring. To correct this a lighter step-up spring would need to be installed. As a base line, you want the step-up spring vacuum rating to be half of what your engines vacuum is at an idle for best performance.

The Performer/Thunder series carburetors do not need to be removed from the intake manifold to do jet and rod changes. Just use caution and not drop any parts down the throttle bores. Metering Rod and Step-Up Spring changes can typically be made in less than five minutes and without removing the carburetor. First, loosen the Step-Up Piston Cover Screws and twist the Step-Up Piston Cover Plates to the side. The Metering Rods and Step-Up Springs can now be removed and replaced if necessary. Be sure to replace the Step-Up Piston Cover Plate and snug the Step-Up Piston Cover Screw when finished. CAUTION: Do not overtighten the Step-Up Piston Cover Screws! They should only be tightened to 12 to 17 inch/pounds. Excessive torque will weaken or snap off the screw heads. If this happens, they may fall into the carb causing serious engine damage. If an inch/pound torque wrench is not available, snug the screw until it just touches the plate, then tighten 1/16th turn more.

To replace the Primary or Secondary Metering Jets, first, remove the Metering Rods and Step-Up Springs as outlined in the preceding paragraph. Next, disconnect the fast idle Cam Connector Rod, Accelerator Pump Connector Rod, and Electric Choke Connector Rod (when applicable). Finally, remove the 8 Airhorn Attaching Screws (early models have 9 screws) and remove the Airhorn from the carburetor body. A standard screwdriver can now be used to remove the appropriate Metering Jets. Once desired Metering Jets have been installed the carb may be reassembled by reversing this procedure.

The Step-Up function, which moves the Metering Rod to the Power Mode, is controlled by the Step-Up Spring. The base calibration has a spring which “stages” rich at 5" Hg. If your vehicle has a mid-throttle driveability problem that is encountered as the throttle is gradually opened, but then goes away upon further opening, it may be possible to eliminate the lean spot by using a stronger Step-Up Spring. It is best to select a new spring based on vacuum readings, but in the absence of a gauge, try the strongest spring (highest vacuum rating) to see if the problem goes away. If the drive problem is cured by the strong spring, try the next weakest spring as well. If the strong one does not help, then the calibration problem is related to the A/F metering stage of either the Cruise or Power Modes. As a general rule for best performance run a step-up spring that is rated at half of what the engines vacuum is at an idle.

The Edelbrock Performer Series/Thunder Series carburetors have conventional Idle Mixture Screws (IMS) that provide a leaner A/F when turned clockwise and richer A/F when turned counter clockwise.The idle air flow is controlled by a conventional idle speed screw that opens the Primary Throttles. The following procedure should be used to set the idle mixture and speeds.

• Fully warm engine and ensure choke is fully open.
• Air cleaner in place.
• Set desired speed with the idle speed screw.
• Adjust the IMS on ONE side to get the maximum possible RPM.
• Do not go rich beyond the maximum speed point.
• If the above changed the idle speed more than 40 RPM, then re-adjust the speed.
• Adjust the side OPPOSITE of that in Step 4 to get maximum RPM.
• Reset the speed.
• Carefully trim each IMS to again get the maximum idle RPM.
• Go leaner just enough to get a 20 RPM drop in speed.
• Reset the speed via the idle speed screw to the desired RPM.
• This is a Lean-Best Idle Set. Setting richer than this will not
• Improve idle quality or performance, but could tend to foul plugs.

Another way to adjust the idle mixture screws would be with a vacuum gauge. With your idle RPM set hook up your vacuum gauge to a full manifold vacuum port. Next adjust the idle mixture screws one at a time until you get the highest and steadiest vacuum. If your idle speed is now off reset idle speed via the idle speed screw and re-adjust mixture screws until you get the highest vacuum.

There is no requirement to run a fuse for the electric choke on the Edelbrock Performer/Thunder series carburetors as the choke has a very low amp draw (.5amp). If you would feel more comfortable running a fuse you can use a 10-amp fuse for the choke power wire.

For a first step, you can pull out the carburetor idle mixture screws and blow some compressed air into the idle mixture screw holes. This can be a temporary fix since you’re just blowing the debris right back into the carburetor. To fully clean out the idle circuit you will need to remove the carburetor from the intake manifold, then remove the top of the carburetor and remove the primary venturi boosters. Clean out all the passages on the venturi booster especially the small idle jet, this is where the fuel travels through to feed the idle circuit. Take out your idle mixture screws and clean out that passage, you should have free flow from the mixture screw hole up to the passage where the venturi booster mounts.

In most cases the airhorn gasket can be reused, just inspect for any tares in the gasket before re-installation. When removing the airhorn be sure the gasket comes up with the airhorn. If the gasket is sticking to the base slide a thin flat object such as a gasket scraper between the gasket and the base to break the gasket free.

To help eliminate heat soak problems your best bet is to use a heat insulating spacer under the carb base. A heat insulating spacer material plays a huge role in insulating the carburetor for heat. The best spacer material to use is either wood fiber, phenolic plastic or one made of gasket material. Its best to run a spacer with a 4-hole design, this will help shield more heat from the carburetor. Some other tips for heat soak, be sure the fuel line is routed away from any hot heat sources like intake, exhaust and so on. You can also verify that the float levels are correct, if the floats level is too high this can compound the problem. Be sure you don’t have restrictions in the exhaust, some vehicles have heat risers in the exhaust and if they get stuck in the closed position this will cause more exhaust crossover heat under the carb.

Edelbrock does not recommend the use of an open adaptor on a stock intake manifold for a few reasons. With an open adaptor on a stock intake manifold, you can run into several problems. Installing an open carb spacer on a stock intake manifold will likely result in uneven air/fuel distribution due to the open space. With a lot of stock intakes, they have 4 holes and with an open adaptor you will have a lot of positive steps in your air/fuel charge, plus fuel will puddle on the intake carb pad. You will also lose throttle response when using an open adaptor. The only time open adaptors should be used is on single plane intake manifolds.

The main reason an accelerator pump shaft would break on an Edelbrock Performer/Thunder series carb, is that the accelerator pump connector link has been installed backwards. When you’re looking at the front of the carburetor the accelerator pump connector should look like the shape of the letter S. If your pump connector looks more like the letter Z then the connector is on backwards. If the connector is correct then check the bore of the accelerator pump well for any damage. Also, be sure that the accelerator pump passage to the nozzle is free and clear. If the passage is plugged it can cause a hydraulic effect and break the pump shaft.

If your engine is hard to start cold please know that is not normal and there are a few items to check. The first step is to be sure you’re getting a pump shot of fuel out of the accelerator pump nozzle. If the vehicle has not been running in a few days, you could be having a problem with today’s fuels evaporating out of the float bowls. If the vehicle is ran every day and you’re not getting a pump shot of fuel you may need to rebuild the carb or at least change the accelerator pump. If your accelerator pump is working properly, you will now need to see if your choke adjustment is off as this could also be the cause. Be sure when the choke is set that there is about an 3/16” gap between the choke blade and the airhorn. If the choke is closed all the way or if you have to big of a gap the engine will be hard to start cold. If the choke needs to be adjusted.

In a past FAQ we talked about how to lean your carburetor out for better fuel economy, this time I would like to give some other tips that can help improve fuel mileage. Adding a 1 inch 4-hole spacer can help improve signal to the carburetor which will help atomize the fuel better and can increase your mileage. Be sure your running a large enough air cleaner and it is clean. A EGR valve can help with fuel economy at cruise speeds. You also want to be sure you have a good tune-up, good sparkplugs, wires, cap and rotor.

Carb spacers can definitely change the performance of an engine. A 4-hole spacer can improve your low end response, but also limit your top end performance some. A divided spacer would do the opposite, you will lose some bottom end performance but you may pick up some performance on the top end. Open spacers are only for use on single plane intake manifolds and will cause your engine to lose some low end response but you should pick up on the top end. Open spacers are very common in racing applications when allowed. You can change the power band of your intake pretty easy, using 1 to 2-inch spacers. The bigger gains will be seen when your intake manifold is a little too small for your application adding this additional plenum volume (open spacer) can really wake an engine up at higher RPM’s.

If this is carb related your calibration might be a little off. First try the different positions on the accelerator pump arm. The top hole closest to the pivot point will give you the biggest pump shot, the bottom hole will give you the smallest pump shot of fuel. In most cases this will take care of the problem. Also, be sure your idle mixture is adjusted properly, the idle mixture still plays a roll right off idle. If these things don’t solve the problem then you will need to recalibrate the carburetor. If you can notice a difference in performance with the different pump arm positions then this will help you. If the top hole closest to the pivot point works the best the engine wants more fuel and if the bottom hole works the best then the engine wants less fuel.

This is normally due to a choke that is slightly out of adjustment, this is common as the temperatures get colder into the fall months. As the temperatures decrease the choke valve will start to close more, when this happens the fast idle cam will engage. The best way to resolve this is to readjust your choke. If the choke is not the cause, then check to be sure the return spring is not catching on anything.

Altitude has a direct effect on the operation of most carburetors. As the altitude increases, the air becomes less dense so a carburetor, originally calibrated at low altitude (sea level), delivers too much fuel and the engine runs richer. If the preceding tuning procedure is performed on an Edelbrock Performer Series/Thunder Series carburetor, a proper high altitude calibration will result. If the vehicle was calibrated at lower altitude, however, and is to be driven at high altitude temporarily, it is not necessary to repeat the complete calibration procedure. A good rule to go by is to adjust your carb “2% leaner per 1500 feet” of elevation you will be traveling to. For example, with a #1405 at baseline calibration (location #1 on the chart) and intended operation at 6000 ft. altitude, you would want 6000 divided by 1500 x 2% = 8% leaner calibration. That would be location #24 on the chart which would require only a rod and jet change.

There can be a few things that can cause no pump shot of fuel through the accelerator pump nozzle. First be sure the pump connector rod is hooked up; this rod connects the throttle lever to the accelerator pump arm. Next, remove the airhorn of the carburetor and inspect the accelerator pump for any obvious signs of a bad pump, like a torn pump cup. Be sure the float level is set to 7/16, if the float level is to low, there will not be enough fuel in the float bowls to fill the accelerator pump well. If float is to low see adjust float procedure. Next, be sure that the accelerator pump passage is clear use some carb cleaner. If the pump passage needs to be cleaned use some carb cleaner with the supplied nozzle spray the carb cleaner through the hole in the bottom of the pump well. You should see the spray coming out of the accelerator pump nozzle. If that passage is plugged take off the accelerator pump nozzle and turn carb upside-down. A check ball and weight or check ball and spring should come out depending on the model of carb. You want to be sure the check ball comes out, if it does not then it may be stuck in the bore and causing your problem. This can be common especially with engines that are not ran much. Use some carb cleaner/penetrating spray to try to free up check ball if needed, then clean passage.

The most common reason the secondary’s do not open is due to an improper choke adjustment or the choke is not opened all the way. When the choke is engaged there is a secondary lock-out that will not allow the secondaries to open. Some other causes could be a throttle cable not adjusted properly or a possibility that the secondary throttle blades are hitting the intake or adaptor. There is also a link on the passenger side that ties the primaries to the secondary’s, be sure this linkage is installed. Note: The secondary air door MUST be opened to see the secondary throttle blades. The air door is not a mechanical device and will not open when you actuate the throttle.

When off-roading in an uphill off camber situation the fuel from one float bowl spills over to the other float bowl due to a passage that ties the 2 float bowls together at the rear of the carb and then the carburetor floods out the engine. This passage can be seen with the top of the carburetor off, its located at the top rear of the carbs base. Here are a couple things that you can do to help make this better. First be sure the floats are set to the recommended 7/16” gap, if float needs to be adjusted see float adjustment procedure. It is also recommended to use the Edelbrock off-road needle & seat assembly #1465, this could also help during off-road use. To help prevent the fuel from flowing through the rear passage it can be blocked off. With the top off the carburetor place a fuel resistant putty or epoxy to fill in the rear passage. We don’t recommend modifying the carb just use something to prevent the fuel flow. Our carburetors are not ideal for extreme off camber situations when off-roading, but if you do these steps it should greatly improve the flooding problem.

Here are a few things that would prevent fuel from entering a Performer/Thunder series carburetor. A stuck Needle & Seat can cause this, first try tapping on the rear of the carburetor with a small screwdriver handle while cranking to try and knock them free. Check the fuel pressure you must have at least 2 p.s.i. of fuel pressure to run the carburetor. If you still can’t get fuel to enter the carburetor, then remove the lid from the carburetor and pull the needle out of the seat. Inspect the needle tip and seat for any obvious signs that would cause the needle to get stuck. Next remove the seat assembly and inspect the screens behind the seat. These screens could be plugged preventing the fuel from entering the carburetor.

If the choke valve will no longer close, then more than likely the choke thermostat is bad and the choke cap needs to be replaced. First, loosen up the 3 screws and rotate the choke cap clockwise to see if the choke valve will close. Also check to see if you can move the choke valve by hand, if you can move the choke valve by hand but can’t move it by turning the choke cap then replace the choke cap #1474.

If you are in an area that does not require a choke it is possible to not hook up the push pull cable. If you’re not using a manual choke push pull cable, then you must wire or secure the choke open in some way. If you do not secure the choke in the open position it can close upon acceleration. One of the best ways to lock the choke open is to use a piece of wire in the hole where the push pull cable goes, then secure it somewhere on the carburetor.

The float level should measure 7/16”. Measure the float level using a 7/16” drill bit between the airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float just past the inboard float radius.

Edelbrock Carburetors can be used with a draw through blower, such as the positive displacement 6-71 type blowers. Edelbrock carburetors can’t be used on blow through blowers because of the hollow float design and non-sealed throttle shafts. Edelbrock has done some testing with #1405 carburetors on 6-71 blowers and below is a combination that worked well during testing. Two model #1405 carburetors should be used on engines with positive displacement superchargers, such as GMC 6-71 blowers or equivalent. The following calibration changes make an excellent starting point: Primary Jets - .101" (#1429); Secondary Jets - .101" (#1429); Metering Rods - .070" x .042" (#1450); Step-up Piston Springs - 5" (orange, stock); Needle & Seat assemblies - .110" (#1466). This calibration has been tested on engines ranging in size from 350 c.i.d. Chevys to 440 c.i.d. Chryslers with good results.

There is no fuel filter inside the Edelbrock Performer/Thunder series carburetors. Screens are installed into the needle and seat assembly, but this is not a fuel filter, the screens are used to trap large pieces of debris. An external fuel filter must be used with Edelbrock carburetors.

The Edelbrock Performer/Thunder series carburetors have vented float bowls so it’s common to smell some fuel fumes, especially under the hood with the air cleaner off. A couple things can compound the smell of fumes and heat soak could be a big reason. With heat soak the fuel in the float bowls heats up expands and can even boil the fuel in the float bowls. When this happens fuel can get forced up through the primaries and float bowl vents. This can cause an extreme fuel vapor smell after the engine is shut down. To help prevent this Edelbrock recommends the use of a heat insulating spacer to help keep carburetor cooler. Another cause of a heavy fuel smell after the engine is shut down is flooding. With flooding you will normally have a carburetor running problem as well. Here are some things to check to resolve a flooding condition.

• Fuel pump pressure is too high. The fuel pump pressure should be no more than 6.5 p.s.i.
• Take the top of the carburetor off and check for debris in the needle & seat, also inspect the needle tip to be sure it’s not compromised.
• While the float is off, shake the float for any signs of fuel in the float. If there is fuel in the float replace float.
• Check float level, the float level should measure 7/16”. Measure the float level using a 7/16” drill bit between the airhorn gasket and the top of the outer end of the float just past the inboard float radius.
• Another cause of leaking fuel could be heat soak. Heat soak is when the heat from the engine compartment heats up and can boil the fuel in the float bowls. When this happens, the fuel can get forced through the venturi booster and drip into your engine. This can also cause fuel leaks through the airhorn gasket. Add link to heat insulator gaskets.

The Edelbrock Performer series #1406 & #1411 carburetors are calibrated lean for fuel economy and in most cases, will not function properly on Performer RPM & Torker style manifolds. Most people think you can just change the calibration of the carburetor and turn it into one of the Edelbrock performance carbs. This is not the case as the Venturi boosters are also different and Edelbrock does not sell Venturi booster separately. In most cases when using one of our economy style carbs on a Performer RPM or Torker syle intakes will cause hesitations and surging in the lower RPM range.

The Edelbrock break-in engine oil must be changed no more than 300 miles after break-in.

The Edelbrock break-in oil has an adequate amount of zinc in the oil for a flat tappet camshaft. There is no need to add any oil additives with Edelbrock break-in oil.

The Edelbrock engine oil supplement #1074 treats up to 6 quarts of conventional motor oil.

The Edelbrock engine oil supplement must be used with every oil change with a flat tappet camshaft unless the oil your running has zinc and is designed for flat tappet camshafts.

One way to ensure the A/B epoxy will stay in place is to root the epoxy. Before applying the epoxy to the intake manifold drill some small holes in the area the epoxy is being used. Push the epoxy into the holes, this will root the epoxy to help keep it in place.

The Edelbrock high temp silicone sealant is sensor safe.

We recommend using high temp RTV in place of the end seal, the RTV will give you a better seal. In many cases the end seal will be too thick or thin to seal properly with the aftermarket Edelbrock intake manifold. If the end seals are too thin then they will not compress properly and leak. If the seals are too thick then you can run into a problem with warping the intake and potential vacuum leaks due to end seals holding the intake up and not allowing intake gaskets to compress properly.

Edelbrock crate engines are assembled with all new parts.

There is no core charge for Edelbrock crate engines as they use all new parts.

The Edelbrock crate engines that use a flat tappet cam will need to break-in the cam. If you pay for the dyno service there will be no need to break-in the cam, we break-in the cam before the dyno pulls. No need to break-in the camshaft with engines equipped with a roller cam.

Edelbrock crate engines that are above 400 horsepower will require the use of a higher stall speed torque converter. We normally recommend a stall speed around 2,500.

The carburetor settings should be close out of the crate. The only adjustment that would be required is the choke. The outside temperature determines the choke position so due to different climates we can’t preset the choke. The best time to set you choke is in the morning when the engine is cold and the outside temps are on the lower side. With no power supply to the choke hit the throttle, the choke should close and you should have about an 1/8” gap between the choke valve and the airhorn. If your choke is out of adjustment just loosen the 3 choke cap screws and rotate the black choke thermostat until you achieve a 1/8” gap. If you must adjust the choke be sure to hold the throttle lever open about a ¼ of the way. This will ensure that the fast-idle cam is out of the way and will not interfere with your adjustment. If the choke is adjusted properly and it still will not open fully, you may have a problem with the voltage supply to choke. The choke needs a key on 12-volt power source. This means it is necessary to have 12 volts while engine is running and no power when the engine is off. With the wire disconnected from the choke check to be sure you have 12 volts when the key is on. If not find a new power source. Do not connect the positive wire to the Ignition Coil, ballast resistor or Alternator.

The Edelbrock crate engines are supplied with Edelbrock Break-In Oil in the crate. The engine oil must be changed no more than 300 miles after break-in. After 250 to 300 miles the engine will be broken-in.

Zinc Enhanced 10w-40 motor oil is recommended for most climates to provide the necessary wear protection that is no longer found in most conventional oils.

The recommended spark plugs are Champion RC12YC or equivalent 14mm x 3/4” reach with a flat gasket seat.

If you have no engine in your application and need to check fitment you might want to invest in a mock up block. They are great for checking clearances and are light weight.

The Edelbrock crate engines offer a 2-year unlimited mileage warranty. All our crate engines are warranted through us directly. One of the great features of this warranty is your right to choose a service facility. Upon Edelbrock’s approval, you have the flexibility of choosing any ASE certified facility nationwide to take care of your warranty claims. Whether you’re close to home or on a cross country cruise, we’ve got you covered. Important Note: To activate warranty service, visit www.edelbrockwarranty.com to complete the online warranty registration for your new crate engine. THE ONLINE WARRANTY REGISTRATION MUST BE RECEIVED WITHIN 30 DAYS OF THE INITIAL INVOICE DATE FOR WARRANTY VALIDATION OR YOUR WARRANTY WILL BE VOID.

Here is a list of some of the additional parts that will be needed for the install.

• Low Temperature Radiator (LTR)
  • #15405: Full Face Universal Fit
  • #15406: Compact Universal Fit
  • #15407: Compact, 16” x 16”, Universal Fit
• Low Temperature Radiator (LTR)
• LTR/Intercooler Plumbing
• Fuel Pump - A minimum fuel flow of 75gph @ 60psi differential pressure is required. It is the responsibility of the customer to ensure that adequate fuel flow is achieved at the operating voltage of the fuel pump. Engine damage can occur if fuel flow is insufficient.
• Fuel Pressure Regulator with Boost Reference.
• Spark Plugs - NGK - BR7EFS or equivalent, are highly recommended for this application.
• Spark Plug Wires and Coil Mounting Hardware.

The Edelbrock Supercharged LS 416 crate engine uses a Corvette belt offset.

The Edelbrock supercharged LS 416 crate engine made 12 pounds of boost on the Edelbrock dyno at sea level in a controlled environment. Boost numbers can vary depending on variables like elevation, outside temperature and humidity.

The Edelbrock supercharged LS 416 crate engine can be ordered with a different supercharger lid that will give you an additional 2” of clearance. When you order the engine just tell the place of purchase that you would like to special order the engine with the corvette supercharger lid. Here are the specs of the engine as it ships without the corvette lid. Top of supercharger measures 21.54" from crank centerline, Oil pan dimensions: 2.625" tall at the front, sump measures 6.75" (front) to 7.75" (rear) high and 7.75" in length.

The Edelbrock supercharged Ford Coyote 5.0L crate engine made 17 pounds of boost on the Edelbrock dyno at sea level in a controlled environment. Boost numbers can vary depending on variables like elevation, outside temperature and humidity.

Here is a list of some of the additional parts that will be needed for the install.

• Low Temperature Radiator (LTR)
  • #15405: Full Face Universal Fit
  • #15406: Compact Universal Fit
  • #15407: Compact, 16” x 16”, Universal Fit
• LTR/Intercooler Plumbing
• Fuel Pump - A minimum fuel flow of 75gph @ 60psi differential pressure is required. It is the responsibility of the customer to ensure that adequate fuel flow is achieved at the operating voltage of the fuel pump. Engine damage can occur if fuel flow is insufficient.
• Fuel Pressure Regulator with Boost Reference.

A GM Performance Muscle Car Oil Pan Kit (PN 19212593) is used on the LS416 crate engines. Make sure you have adequate subframe and ground clearance before installing the engine.

The Edelbrock supercharged crate engines must run a minimum of 91 octane fuel.

Please note that this crate engine is originally from a 2011-13 5.0 Mustang equipped with electric power steering. In order to run power steering, you can retrofit an appropriate electric power steering pump. Another option is to use the Ford Racing Power Steering Pump Bracket for the 2011-2013 5.0L. This bracket can be purchased directly from Ford Racing (Part Number - M-8511-M50BR). Please note that the Ford Racing solution mounts the power steering pump in the A/C compressor location. As a result, the Ford Racing bracket is not compatible if you will be running A/C.

This crate engine is shipped dry without engine oil. Make sure to add the recommended Ford oil prior to priming the engine oil. The engine oil must be changed no more than 300 miles after break-in. A full synthetic SAE 5W-50 is highly recommended after the break-in period. Engine oil capacity is eight (8) quarts.

The Edelbrock cylinder heads are made in the USA. The heads are casted and machined in our ultramodern foundry in San Jacinto California, USA.

The Edelbrock cylinder heads offer a 1-year warranty. It is the constant endeavor of the Edelbrock, LLC to give our customers the highest quality products obtainable. We warrant each new product to be free from defects in both workmanship and material from the original date of purchase, provided that the product is properly installed, subjected to normal use and service and that the product is not modified or changed in any way, nor damaged because of negligence by customer or installer. Some states do not allow limitation on how long an implied warranty is so the limitations outlined here may not apply in your state. When using other camshafts with Edelbrock cylinder heads, please consult the camshaft manufacturer for recommended valve spring rates and specifications. Valve spring rates and camshafts must be compatible to avoid severe engine damage. All Edelbrock complete cylinder heads are supplied with valve springs that are compatible with Edelbrock camshafts for optimal operations within the specified RPM range. Camshafts that exceed the specified valve spring rate will void the warranty on these cylinder heads.

In most cases the stock valvetrain will need to be changed. Most Edelbrock heads require adjustable valvetrain, in other cases the heads might take special valvetrain. To find out what valvetrain is needed see instruction sheets or contact Edelbrock Tech line.

To figure out what the compression ratio is with Edelbrock heads your best bet is to call the piston manufacturer. Just tell the piston manufacturer what the combustion chamber volume is on the Edelbrock heads. You should also have the info on the compressed head gasket thickness and piston part number before you call the piston manufacturer. There are also compression ratio calculators that can be found online that can be helpful.

Hardened pushrods must be used with Edelbrock heads if the heads use pushrod guide plates.

The recommended spark plugs are Champion RC12YC/2071 or equivalent 14mm x 3/4” reach with a flat gasket seat.

All the Edelbrock Performer, Performer RPM and E-series heads have stock intake and exhaust port locations. A lot of the Victor Jr., Victor and some E-CNC do not have stock port locations. Look in the cylinder head specifications for information or contact the Edelbrock Tech line.

Most of today’s coolant will be compatible with the Edelbrock cylinder heads. Just be sure the coolant is designed to be used with aluminum engine components. If you do not buy the premixed coolant be sure you mix the coolant with 50/50 mix, distilled water.

Edelbrock recommends the use of stock ratio rocker arms with Edelbrock cylinder heads. The design and testing has been done with factory ratio rocker arms. If a higher ratio rocker arm is used in some cases pushrod length may have to be changed and you could run into a clearance problem with the pushrod hole in the head.

Generally, you can expect to see gains around 30-50 hp over factory cylinder heads, but this depends on a lot of variables.

Bare cylinder heads will have guides and seats installed, but will require final sizing and a valve job to match the valves you will be using.

Edelbrock offers different spring options for most of our cylinder heads. However, Edelbrock E-Street heads only allow springs for hydraulic flat tappet cams.

With a straight cut .060” will be the max that can be machined off the deck. With an angle mill .120” will be the max that can be machined off the deck.

The spring pockets can be machined up to .060” deeper with Edelbrock Street heads like (E-Street, Performer, Performer RPM). Contact Edelbrock Tech support for information on the race series heads like (Victor Jr and Victor series).

To be safe Edelbrock recommends running .100” piston to valve on the intake and exhaust. Some engine builders will run tighter clearances but .100” will be a safe clearance.

The 2.02” intake valve will not clear the factory pistons unless they are notched for the 2.02” valve.

The Edelbrock cylinder heads can be used on the 350-403ci. engines with some modifications. The mechanical fuel pump can’t be used, must use an electric fuel pump. Must use the RPM intake manifold and port match the intake to the heads. In some cases, the factory brackets will not fit if they attach to the cylinder head.

When using the Edelbrock #9680 head bolt bushings a head bolt washer is no longer needed. The #9680 will take the place of the head bolt washer.

It is not a problem to block off the exhaust crossover on Edelbrock heads. If it’s for non-emissions use only and you don’t have to have the exhaust heat to operate a heat activated choke or EGR valve.

The E-street heads are rated to 5,500 RPM’s due to the valvetrain that is used. The E-street heads use a harder seat and a heavier valve in comparison to our heads that are rated to higher RPM’s. The E-street heads start to encounter valve float past 5,500 RPM’s.

The E-street heads use a harder seat and heavier valve, for this reason we do not recommend running a roller cam. With the more aggressive ramp designs of the roller cams you will run into valve float quicker and may encounter engine damage.

If pushrod rubs on the cylinder head, remove rocker arms, loosen the rocker studs and move the guideplate as needed to provide clearance. After checking all pushrods for proper clearance, ensure that the tip of the rocker arm is making adequate contact with the tip of the valve stem. Carefully re torque to 45 ft./lbs. any rocker studs that were loosened. Check alignment again to be sure that the guideplates did not move while torqueing the studs.

The spark plugs are not in the stock location, they are an angle plug design to make more horsepower. For headers, we recommend contacting TTI (951) 371-4878 they have headers designed to fit the Edelbrock cylinder heads, or call Tech Department.

With these heads, a Ram-Air IV (round port) design header or exhaust manifolds must be used.

One of the more common reasons an engine would run hot after cylinder head installation is due to air trapped in the cooling system. Get the front end of the vehicle up in the air using some wheel ramps. With the engine cold remove the radiator cap and start the engine for a couple minutes. Doing this will work the air pockets out of the cooling system, refill coolant as needed. Be sure the thermostat was installed correct also.

Due to the rate at which aluminum dissipates heat you can get away with running a higher compression ratio over cast iron heads. To be safe you can run a half point higher compression ratio with Edelbrock heads over cast iron heads.

Edelbrock does not offer a cylinder head repair service.

More than likely the area the intake manifold is not covering is a blind expansion chamber around the exhaust crossover. The intake does not have to cover this area its just an expansion area around the exhaust crossover just be sure the cavity is blind and does not go anywhere.

With the Edelbrock FE cylinder heads there is no reason to restrict the oil feed with what we have seen during testing on Edelbrock dyno’s and in car testing.

These cylinder heads are equipped with valve spring cups. Due to the diameter of the valve spring cups, it may be necessary to clearance the headbolt washer. This will allow the headbolt washers to seat properly to the cylinder head. This can also be accomplished by removing the valve spring and cup. Then position washer prior to installation of cylinder head.

The heads are designed to use non-self-aligning rocker arm. If self-aligning rockers are used the guideplates will need to be removed and replaced with some hardened washers, like head bolt washers.

The valve seat angles on Edelbrock street complete heads are; 30°, 45° (on seat) and 60°. Edelbrock racing heads may use different valve seat angles, contact tech department for more information.

• Chevy: GEN 1 Small Block (Standard & Vortec Style Intake Ports), Big Block (Standard Deck Only), and (GEN III & IV) LS engines (cable throttle only).
• Ford: 289/302 & 351 Windsor, FE and 429/460 (385 Series) Big Block Engines.
• Mopar: 318-360 Small Block, RB Big Block, & GEN 2 HEI Engines.
• AMC: 1967-69 (343/390 cid) & 1970-1991 (304, 360, 390, 401 cid)
• Pontiac: 326-455

Calibrations Available to Support Engine Displacements between 280 – 565 cid.

Supported power level range is 200 – 825 Hp (Naturally Aspirated). Or Up To 1000 Hp (Forced Induction)

Yes. Pro-Flo 4 features a unique 7-1 Tooth Tigger Wheel to deliver sequential port injection, which reduces manifold wall wetting and improves overall engine performance and drivability.

On distributed spark engines, the spark is delivered to the appropriate cylinder by the distributor rotor. On LS engines, Pro-Flo 4 uses waste spark ignition with paired ignition outputs to fire 8 ignition coils with 4 ignition drivers.

Fuel map learning is always active whenever the engine coolant temp is >170°F. Repeated runs through the same section of the fuel map (for instance WOT pulls or sustained cruising) will have established good learn values within 3-5 iterations. Other sections of the fuel map that are less often used will take longer to establish learn values. With most applications the vehicle will run satisfactorily out of the box, self-learn will be unnoticeable.

Yes. Pro-Flo 4 uses a very active and robust closed loop AFR control function that will account for any atmospheric condition changes including altitude and barometric pressure and temperature.

Pro Flo 4 is a Port Style Fuel Injection System operating the Injectors in a fully sequential manner. Prior to each of the cylinder’s intake valve opening event the Fuel Injector is fired in a timely manner. This produces a very atomized and controlled fuel delivery to each cylinder and reduces plenum and port wetting that slows intake air flow and velocity. Conversely a Carburetor or TBI System introduces the fuel into the airstream at the plenum wetting the entire intake manifold and relying on the manifold and cylinder vacuum to distribute the fuel to the cylinders in an uncontrolled manner. The fuel intake mixture is very effected fuel puddling, fuel falling out of air suspension and continually changing manifold surface and air intake temperatures. Individual cylinder Air Fuel Ratios are very inconsistent and complicate modern Closed Loop/Self Learn strategies programmed in the ECU to control overall fuel mixture.

Pro-Flo 4 can work with cam profiles from stock to fairly aggressive. Base calibrations are broken down into 3 groups based on cam duration @ 0.050” lift: stock, mild & race. Stock is 210° or less, mild is 210°-230°, and race is 230° or more. Cam profiles with wider LSA values and a minimum idle vacuum of 5.0” Hg are generally recommended. Very aggressive carburetor cams with tight LSA values and poor idle vacuum should be avoided.

Assembled Intake manifold with Throttle Body, Injectors, Fuel Rails, Hoses and Sensors. ECU, Harnesses, Distributor, Wide Band O2 Sensor and Weld Bung, Intake Gaskets, Misc Pipe Plugs, Hardware, Tyaps and Installation Instructions.

Pro-Flo 4 kits include nearly all components necessary for installation except for fuel system and ignition coil. A high pressure EFI fuel system will need to be installed along with a canister style inductive coil (Recommended coil is Edelbrock #22746)b>. The O2 Sensor Threaded Fitting should be installed in the exhaust system prior to starting the installation. A plug is included in the kit if the vehicle must be driven from the exhaust shop prior to install. Do not use the O2 sensor as a plug if the EFI System is not operating. Damage to the sensor will occur if not powered. See Pro-Flo 4 installation instructions for more details.

Not very difficult, if you can change an Intake Manifold and install a Distributor you can handle the install. The wire harness is completely terminated, and all connections are clearly labeled.

The O2 sensor should be mounted in the exhaust system at least 6 to 8 inched downstream of the header collector merge at a 10 degree angle above horizontal to prevent moisture accumulation on cold starts. This location should provide the best average mixture signal of all cylinders in that header.

Pro-Flo 4 has base calibrations for both 43 and 58 psi of fuel pressure.

Yes. The fuel pressure regulator must have a vacuum line connected to it to compensate the fuel pressure based on intake manifold pressure. Using a fuel pressure regulator without manifold pressure reference will result in skewed AFRs.

Distributor based Pro-Flo 4 systems are offered with 29, 35, 42 or 60 lb/hr fuel injectors and LS systems are offered with 29, 35 or 42 lb/hr fuel injectors, but can also be used with stock fuel injectors.

For Boosted Applications, 60 or 80 lb/hr Injectors are required and may be purchased separately. Contact Tech Support for further details

There are (5) Sizes of Injectors available for Pro-Flo4 EFI Systems.

• 29 lb/hr Support up to 450 HP (N/A)
• 35 lb/hr Support up to 550 HP (N/A)
• 42 lb/hr Support up to 625 HP (N/A)
• 60 lb/hr Support up to 825 HP (N/A) / 750 HP (Forced Induction)
• 80 lb/hr Support up to 1000 HP (Forced Induction Only)

No, All wetted materials in the Pro-Flo 4 system are resistant to most fuels, however all base calibrations have been configured and tuned on pump gas. Ethanol based blend fuels are not supported. Leaded race gas should be avoided as the O2 sensor may become lead fouled and fail prematurely.

All Pro-Flo EFI systems require a high-pressure fuel system capable of providing 43-45psi or 58-60 psi of fuel pressure. Edelbrock offers two types of fuel delivery methods, Return Style (#3604/3651/3653) and Fuel Sump (#36031) Systems. Both feature a 67 GPH (255 Liter/Hr) high pressure fuel pump and adjustable regulator to Support up to 600 HP (Naturally Aspirated)

A minimum flow rating of 57 GPH (215 liter/hr) is recommended for All Pro-Flo EFI up to 500 HP (N/A)

All Adjustable, Return Style Fuel Systems Require a Return Line run back to the Fuel Tank.

For the Fuel Sump (#36031) Systems Only a Small (5/16”) Vent/Overflow Line back to the Tank is Required.

The Pro Flo 4 EFI system has an internal coil driver capable of direct firing a standard inductive ignition coil. Ignition coils must have a primary resistance of at least 0.6 Ohms and inductance of at least 6.0mH. Recommended coil is Edelbrock #22746. Ignition coils with less than the minimum primary resistance or sold as “CDI” coils must not be used as they may permanently damage the ECU.

The following list of alternative coils have been verified to work well with the Pro-Flo 4 system:

• MSD Blaster 2 #8202
• MSD Blaster 3 #8223
• MSD Street Fire #5524
• Pertronix Flame-Thrower #40111
• Bosch "Blue Coil" #9220081083
• Jeg’s High Energy Ignition Coil #40105
• Summit Racing High Output Coil #G5215
• Summit Racing High Output Coil #G5219

Yes. A CDI box may be used in conjunction with Pro-Flo4 and is recommended for high horsepower and high RPM (>6,500 rpm) engines. See Instructions for wiring diagrams.

Yes, however, all programmable timing functions must be zeroed out. The Pro-Flo 4 ECU handles all ignition timing control and if combined with a CDI that’s also manipulating timing, final spark timing values may not be as expected which could result in severe knock or engine damage.

No, the ProFlo EFI Distributors do not have a Mechanical Tach Drive Provision. There are aftermarket Electronic Conversion Kits available for some vehicles Originally Equipped with a Mechanical Tach Drive System. Check the internet for options.

Yes! Forced Induction Calibrations are available to work with Turbochargers and Centrifugal or Roots style Superchargers up to 15psi of Boost

Boost Applications require 60 lb/hr (#3697) or 80 lb/hr (#3522) Fuel Injectors and a GM 2-Bar MAP Sensor (#3542) or 2.5-Bar T-MAP Sensor & Harness (#3547)

Pro-Flo 4 currently does not have functionality to work with nitrous and is not recommended.

Yes, the E Tuner 4 App is available for both Android and IOS based devices. ON ECUs with older Firmware version prior to version 68 an update to the ECU Firmware from an Android device to the latest version 68 or higher will be necessary prior to connecting with an IOS device.

The Pro-Flo 4 ECU is rated for under hood installation but can also be mounted in the driver’s compartment. The Pro-Flo 4 ECU connector is at least IP67 rated making it dust and temporary water immersion resistant. Ideally, the ECU should be mounted such that the opening of the ECU connector backing shell is pointed down to prevent water from being accumulated.

The Pro-Flo 4 ECU utilizes CAN BUS communication to interface with external devices. The Pro-Flo 4 ECU has a CAN data stream output that sends out engine run data which can be received by 3rd party devices such as Transmission Controllers, Data Loggers, Digital Dashes or Race displays. If not using a CAN device, the CAN connector is generally not used.

No. Pro-Flo 4 is Not Coast Guard certified for marine use.

No, Pro-Flo 4 does not support knock sensors.

No. Pro-Flo 4 is an Engine Control Unit only. Edelbrock TC Transmission Controller is a simplified plug and play solution that communicates via CAN connection.

Pro-Flo 4 was designed as a budget friendly, entry level EFI system with lower cost and simplified control functionalities in mind. The Pro-Flo 4 ECU samples the exhaust gases using a single O2 sensor and applies any fuel corrections to all cylinders equally.

O2 sensor life span is affected by many variables. Generally, O2 sensors will last for many tens of thousands of miles, however they are easily damaged by moisture, thermal shock or lead fouling. See O2 sensor mounting guidelines in Pro-Flo 4 installation instructions.

By precisely and consistently controlling fuel delivery, it is possible to reduce excessive exhaust odor after having installed a Pro-Flo 4 system if it is replacing a poorly tuned carburetor (or other EFI system) that was running excessively rich or lean. With that said, the only true way to significantly reduce exhaust smell (due to excessive hydrocarbons) is to use catalytic converters. Electronic fuel injection alone can not and does not reduce overall exhaust emissions.

By precisely and consistently controlling fuel delivery, it is possible to reduce fuel usage after having installed a Pro-Flo 4 system if it is replacing a poorly tuned carburetor (or other EFI system) that was running excessively rich. The Pro-Flo 4 system gives you the ability to quickly and easily change AFR targets and leaning AFR targets may be utilized to decrease overall fuel consumption.

It is possible to increase an engine’s power output after having installed a Pro-Flo 4 system if it is replacing a carburetor (or other EFI system) that was poorly tuned. Conversely, if a Pro-Flo 4 system is not setup with optimal tuning settings for AFR or ignition timing, power output can just as easily be decreased. Ultimately, Pro-Flo 4 is NOT a bolt-on power adder, however it gives the end user the ability to more easily tune their engine for optimal performance and drivability.

Yes. The E-Tuner 4 Android tablet app has a diagnostic page that displays the status of numerous inputs and outputs as a simple green or red “go or no-go” indicator. The ProFlo system does not generate Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

A thermostat of 170°F or higher is required because the Pro-Flo 4 fuel map learning function does not commence until the engine is at a full operating temp of at least 170°F. The use of a 170°F + Thermostat will help ensure that the engine stays in Self-Learn Mode.

The Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor should be installed immediately ahead of the throttle body in the inlet air stream. Typically, it is recommended to install this sensor in the base of the air filter assembly (4150) or in the intake air plumbing tube (XT)

The Air Inlet for XT-Style EFI Systems is typically plumbed with a series of tubes and couplers with a Cone-style Air Filter. The 90mm XT Throttle Body features a 4.5” Diameter Filter Flange.

There are several companies that offer parts for Inlet Plumbing solutions such as…

• www.siliconeintakes.com
• www.siliconehose.com

No. The Pro-Flo 4 ECU and Personal Device communicate wirelessly via Bluetooth for a seamless user interface. There is no Cord to get tangled, cut or damaged.

The Edelbrock #1207 air cleaner as designed as a stock or factory replacement air cleaner. With that, additional parts will be needed to use on an Edelbrock carburetor. To use an Edelbrock electric choke carburetor spacer part #8092 is required. To use on a manual choke carburetor Edelbrock banjo fitting part #8089 is required.

This exclusive urethane foam element retains its high filtering efficiency when washed at 2000 mile intervals. Geographic location and/or vehicle usage may require more frequent cleaning. Simply remove filter by releasing one spring clip, then wash in hot soapy water. Allow element to dry, then re-assemble. When needed, replacement filters (Edelbrock #1099) are available.

The base of the air cleaners for dual-quads is not adjustable, the base spacing is fixed at 6-7/16”, for all Edelbrock brand Dual-Quad intake manifolds.

Hold down tabs should be used when using Edelbrock Signature series stamped steal valve covers. The hold down tabs will help spread the load of the bolts and ensure a good seal.

If the cover is hitting the plenum, then a spacer will need to be used to space up the upper plenum. Before installing a spacer to raise your upper plenum verify hood clearance. Edelbrock offers some plenum spacers for Edelbrock intake manifolds.

Edelbrock tall profile valve covers will have enough clearance to work with roller rocker arms. Due to different designed rocker arms, double check clearance to valve cover baffles.

For applications using breathers/PCV, attach the breather baffles using the supplied drive pins or self-tapping screws. If your valve covers include drive pins, use a punch and hammer to tap the pins in until fully seated. When driving the pins into the valve cover, you must support the back side of the valve cover with a block of wood, or other non-marring surface. Failure to do so could result in damage to the valve cover, such as cracks, dents, etc. (See Fig. 1). Some valve covers include baffles with a curved recess across them. Make note of the position of the baffle. The recess in the baffle plate should be positioned as shown below (See Fig. 2).

The conical air cleaners are a universal design with three inlet adaptors rings for use on 3”, 3.5” and 4” inlet tube systems.

These covers are intended for custom hot rod applications. As such, they may not clear all the hoses, emission hardware, and/or accessories found in a stock application. Modification of the covers may be necessary for use in such an application.

If a lot of oil is being sucked through the PCV valve, then a baffle may not be installed in the valve cover, or installed incorrectly. Also, be sure the PCV valve is functioning properly.

Valve cover gaskets can be installed dry. Some engine builders like some sealer like Gasgacinch to hold the valve cover gasket in place on the valve cover, from the head to the valve cover gasket should be installed dry.

We do not sell replacement elements for the Edelbrock valve cover breathers. The element should last for several years. If you have an Edelbrock breather with a removable top, some foam used to make some universal air cleaners can be used (commonly found in motorcycle parts stores). Make sure foam is gas/oil resistant and won’t cause harm to engine etc.

Take a few pieces of clay, form them into cones and set them on your air cleaner. Then, gently close the hood all the way Making sure you feel for obstructions. If an obstruction is felt stop so you do not cause damage. Re-open your hood to see compressed clay so you can measure it to check for hood clearance. If you don’t have clay handy you can do the same thing by balling up some foil balls.

The Fuel Filter and Pump must be mounted at or below the lowest point of the fuel tank and within 3 feet of the tank outlet. The Edelbrock electric fuel pumps are pusher type fuel pumps and must be gravity fed.

A 100 micron pre-filter with a 10 - 40 micron post filter should be used with Edelbrock EFI electric fuel pumps.

The Edelbrock competition fuel filters are a bi-directional design, with that said there is no specific directional flow.

With the steel fuel line and filter kits a -6 AN to barb adaptor can be used (624010) to install a 3/8” push on rubber hose.

Normally if a fuel pump gets loud the pump is struggling to pump fuel, this can be the caused by a few different reasons.

• Be sure the gas tank is vented and has adequate fuel in the tank.
• If the fuel system is a return style be sure the return to the tank is pointed in the opposite direction of the fuel pick up in the tank.
• Be sure the fuel pump is mounted at or below the fuel level in the tank and pump should be mounted within 3 feet of the gas tank pickup.
• Be sure the fuel filters are not restrictive or plugged with debris.

FORMULA FOR INJECTOR SIZE SELECTION

LBS/HR = ((BSFC ÷ # CYL’S) X HP) ÷ PEAK INJECTION DURATION

Example: What size injectors should you use for a Super Victor EFI 600 hp 350 cid Chevy? 
Lbs/Hr = ((0.50 ÷ 8) x 600) ÷ 0.85 
Lbs/Hr = 37.5 ÷ .85 
Lbs/Hr = 44

Apply O-ring lube to the O-rings (both ends) on the injectors and fittings (fittings and injectors not included). Install the fittings and injectors onto the fuel rails and secure the fuel rails to the manifold using the supplied hardware.

FINAL CHECKS: Once assembly is complete, check the following:

• Check to make sure each injector is properly seated into their respective bores on the fuel rails and manifold. The injectors should be able to rotate freely. This will prevent any air and/or fuel leaks.
• Turn the key to the “ON” position but DO NOT start the vehicle. Check the all fittings and injectors for any leaks. If leaks are present, turn the key “OFF” immediately and repair any leaks before starting the vehicle.

Use of a relay with electric fuel pumps ensures proper wiring, which reduces risk of damage to the fuel pump and results in consistent fuel pressure. The Edelbrock Universal Electric Fuel Pump Relay Kit may also be used with other brand electric fuel pumps, depending on amperage draw.

The inlet/outlet of the Edelbrock mechanical fuel pumps are clockable, the lower housing can be rotated in 60° increments for best inlet/outlet alignment. The inlet and outlet must be clocked together, cannot be clocked independent from one another.

The EFI sump kit can be fed by a low pressure electric fuel pump or a mechanical fuel pump if the fuel pump pressure does not exceed 7 PSI.

This is determined by your engine size and power level. For small cubic inch stock to mild built engines (up to around 350 HP) the 49 PSI system would be best to run. This lower fuel pressure will give you better idle quality and better idle control due to the injector being able to stay open longer. With the high-pressure system (58 PSI) sometimes the injector can’t open and close fast enough causing a rough idle or in some cases the engine will start to load up with fuel on mild built engines.

For larger displacement, more aggressive builds (400 HP plus) the 58 PSI systems would be your best choice to keep up with the added fuel demand of the higher horsepower engine.

The embossed bead of the intake gaskets should face up towards the intake manifold.

There are a couple steps to ensure you get your intake gaskets sealed up properly, below we will go over the steps.

1. Coat head surface and cylinder head side of intake gaskets with 2 coats letting dry between coats Edelbrock Gasgacinch #9300
2. Within a few minutes gaskets and surface will become tacky to the touch. Carefully place gaskets on head surface, aligning ports and bolt holes.
3. With Gasket in place apply a small amount of RTV High Temp silicone sealer around water passages (intake manifold side only)
4. With Edelbrock manifolds, you must use RTV High Temp silicone sealer instead of end seal gaskets. Apply a 1/4" thick ribbon of sealant across each end seal surface. Some installations will require 02 sensor safe silicone.

If the head or intake manifold has no provisions for an exhaust crossover, then there is no need to run the restrictor plates. In most all other cases, the restrictors should be used, one of the only times the restrictors would not be used is if the application is always driven in cold freezing weather.

They are installed by punching out the center hole of the intake gaskets and mating the restrictors together by folding over the small tabs. The use of restrictors is not required but are recommended for warmer climates.

In most cases Edelbrock head gaskets should be installed dry. Some engine builders may use a light coating of copper spray on the cylinder head gaskets, but Edelbrock recommends installing them dry unless otherwise noted in the cylinder head instructions.

Head gasket re-torqueing is not required but recommended. For high compression engines or engines with power adders like forced induction or nitrous, it’s highly recommended to re-torque the cylinder heads after the first heat cycle, wait a several hours to allow the engine to return to ambient temperature before re-torqueing.

The Edelbrock head gaskets work well with applications running pump gas. If the application is not running pump gas then select the appropriate head gasket for your compression ratio.

The Edelbrock head gasket for SBC does not offer the steam holes for the 400ci. engine. The Fel-Pro part number #1014 can be used for the 400 ci. engines.

Edelbrock recommends installing the exhaust gaskets dry.

Valve cover gaskets can be installed dry. Some engine builders like some sealer like Gasgacinch to hold the valve cover gasket in place on the valve cover, from the head to the valve cover gasket should be installed dry.

In some cases, the valve cover gaskets might not fit all the valve covers on the market. If the gasket is slightly to long, then use a straight edge with a razor blade and trim off the excess material.

The Edelbrock heat insulator gasket does not require any gaskets for installation, the heat insulator gaskets are made of gasket material.

We would recommend using a thin amount of silicone on the water pump gaskets to ensure a good seal.

We would recommend using a thin amount of silicone on the timing cover gaskets to ensure a good seal.

For street applications that have stock engines an Edelbrock Performer/Performer EPS intake manifold would be a great choice. Edelbrock Performer intakes also work well with applications that are running a mild camshaft. For modified engines running larger camshafts, it would be best to match up the intake manifold with the operating range of the camshaft your running or refer to cam card. Speak to the cam manufacturer if you need to find out the operating range of the cam. Edelbrock offers intake manifolds with matching camshafts to help eliminate the guess work.

We recommend using high temp silicone in place of the end seal as the silicone will give you a better seal. In many cases the end seal will be too thick or thin to seal properly with the aftermarket Edelbrock intake manifold. If the end seals are too thin, then they will not compress properly and leak. If the seals are too thick then you can run into a problem with warping the intake and potential vacuum leaks due to end seals holding the intake up and not allowing the intake gaskets to compress properly.

The reason you have a gap between the distributor and the intake manifold is due to the distributor drive not engaging into the oil pump drive. In some cases, you may have to use a long flat blade screw driver (or oil pump priming tool) and move the oil pump drive slightly to allow the distributor and oil pump drive to align and allow the distributor to drop all the way down.

It’s very common for the distributor hole in the intake manifold to be larger than the distributor. The hole itself does not locate the distributor. Once the distributor is engaged all the way down to the flat surface on the intake manifold it will locate itself.

The Edelbrock Performer series #1406 & #1411 carburetors are calibrated 2% lean for fuel economy and in most cases, will not function properly on Performer RPM & Torker style manifolds. Most people think you can just change the calibration of the carburetor and turn it into one of the Edelbrock performance carbs. This is not the case as the Venturi boosters are also different and Edelbrock does not sell Venturi boosters separately. In most cases when using one of our economy style carbs on a Performer RPM or Torker style intakes will cause hesitations and surging in the lower RPM range.

There are a few different circumstances that will cause the intake manifold bolt holes to sit higher than the intake bolt holes on the heads. One thing that is over looked in a lot of cases are dowels in the block/heads. The Edelbrock intakes do not have any provisions to work with dowels so they will need to be removed before intake can be installed properly. Be sure the intake clears the valve cover rails; some applications will require to put a 45° break at the top of the intake flange for valve cover rail break back clearance. If you are not running into these problems and your intake manifold is setting on the head sealing surface, then more than likely the deck of your heads or block have been machined. When the deck surface of the heads or block are machined, this will now put the intake bolt holes in the head lower and will cause intake manifold bolts to not line up properly. To solve this the intake manifold or intake head surface will need to be machined.

If any of the intake manifold bolts go into a water jacket or into the lifter valley oil galley, sealer should be used on those bolts. Would recommend using some silicone on the first couple threads of the intake manifold bolts before they are installed. If this is not done, then oil/coolant will ladder up the intake bolt threads and puddle on the intake manifold.

Some Edelbrock intake manifolds use special length intake bolts due to the intake manifold design. Others may require longer bolts due to the fact you must run 1/8” thick hardened washers with the aluminum intake manifolds so the aluminum does not gull and cause an incorrect torque reading.

Edelbrock intake manifolds do not come with intake manifold gaskets. We do offer a line of intake gaskets sold separately that are designed to match most Edelbrock intake manifolds.

There are a couple steps to ensure you get your intake gaskets sealed up properly, below we will go over the steps.

• Coat head surface and cylinder head side of intake gaskets with 2 coats letting dry between coats with Edelbrock Gasgacinch #9300.
• Within a few minutes gaskets and surface will become tacky to the touch. Carefully place gaskets on head surface, aligning ports and bolt holes.
• With Gasket in place apply a small amount of RTV High Temp silicone sealer around water passages (intake manifold side only).
• With Edelbrock manifolds, you must use RTV High Temp silicone sealer instead of end seal gaskets. Apply a 1/4" thick ribbon of sealant across each end seal surface. Some installations will require 02 sensor safe silicone.

Edelbrock does NOT recommend using a carburetor lift plate to remove or installing an engine. The Edelbrock intake manifolds are made of aluminum and the 5/16” carb flange holes are not Heli-coiled.

Some Teflon tape or Paste needs to be installed on any of the NPT fittings that thread into the intake manifold. Use the Teflon tape/paste on the first couple threads of the NPT fitting before the fitting is installed.

Do not use a torque wrench on NPT fittings. Use some Teflon tape/paste on the first couple threads of the NPT fitting. Install fittings into the intake manifold hand tight, then with a couple fingers on a box end wrench lightly snug up fitting. Use caution when tightening up NPT fittings, they have tapered threads and if over tightened can crack the intake manifold.

Some Edelbrock intake manifolds require the use of a #2732 spacer.

Take a few pieces of clay, form them into cones and set them on your air cleaner. Then, gently close the hood all the way making sure you feel for obstructions. If an obstruction is felt stop so you do not cause damage. Re-open your hood to see compressed clay so you can measure it to check for hood clearance. If you don’t have clay handy you can do the same thing by balling up some foil balls.

If your stock engine uses a bypass to the intake manifold you should install it onto the Edelbrock intake also. If a bypass is not installed, you may have problems with the engine running hot.

The Edelbrock Air-Gap intake manifolds are not recommended for cold weather climates. In cold weather, the air/fuel charge is to cold, you will have problems with fuel puddling in the intake runners and will not perform properly. The RPM Air-Gap intakes work extremely well to keep the air/fuel charge cool in warm/hot weather and can give you performance gains over non Air-Gap intake manifolds.

Edelbrock does not offer a service to apply EnduraShine to a used intake manifold. The EnduraShine coating is applied to intake manifolds before they are machined, final machining is done after the EnduraShine is applied.

Simple Green works well to clean up an Edelbrock intake manifold. For best results remove intake manifold from engine.

First, it’s very important to be sure all mating surfaces are clean. With water necks that use a gasket, coat both sides of the water neck gasket with silicone. Install the water neck and start to snug up the bolts when the silicone starts to squeeze out the sides of the water neck, stop, Let the silicone cure overnight and then finish tightening the water neck bolts.

If the NPT fittings are leaking going into the intake manifold, be sure Teflon tape/paste was used and be sure the boss the fitting threads into is not cracked. The NPT fitting is a tapered thread and can crack the intake manifold if over tightened.

The embossed bead on the intake gasket should face up towards the intake manifold.

The Edelbrock Dual-Quad intake manifolds (non-tunnel ram) are designed to work with Edelbrock style carburetors. With the carb pads located so close together other manufacturer carburetors will have interference problems.

In a lot of cases the intake manifold bolt torque specs will change from stock to an aftermarket Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold. Always refer to the installation instructions for torque specs. Instructions are also located in the Edelbrock Tech Center

Below are a couple things to check and to be sure this does not happen again.

1. To find the source of the vacuum leak spray some carb spray, brake cleaner spray around the sealing surfaces if the intake manifold if not coated with EnduraShine. If the intake manifold is coated with Endurashine use some distilled water instead of carb/brake spray. With intake manifolds that have the EnduraShine finish use some distilled water in a spray bottle in place of carb/brake spray.
2. If you find out it’s a fitting leaking, be sure Teflon tape/paste was used on the fitting. Be sure the fitting is tight and be sure the intake casting around the fitting is not cracked. A crack around the fitting would be due to a fitting being over tightened.
3. If the sealing surface is leaking, the intake manifold will need to come off. After the intake manifold is removed check the intake and head mating surface is flat with a straight edge.
4. If the engine has dowels to locate the intake manifold, they must be removed before the Edelbrock intake manifold can be installed.
5. Be sure cork/rubber end seals were not used, this can hold the intake up and not allow it to seal properly. Edelbrock recommends a ¼” bead of RTV silicone to be used in place of the cork/rubber end seals.
6. Be sure the intake manifold gaskets were installed properly. Coat head surface and cylinder head side of intake gaskets 2 coats letting dry between coats with Edelbrock Gasgacinch #9300. Within a few minutes gaskets and surface will become tacky to the touch. Carefully place gaskets on head surface, aligning ports and bolt holes. With Gasket in place, apply a small amount of RTV High Temp silicone sealer around water passages on the intake manifold side. With Edelbrock manifolds, you must use RTV High Temp silicone sealer instead of end seal gaskets. Apply a 1/4" thick ribbon of sealant across each end seal surface. Some installations will require 02 sensor safe silicone.
7. Be sure you follow the Edelbrock instructions for torque specs and sequence. Edelbrock install instructions can be found in the Tech Center

If you have an end seal leak, the intake manifold will need to be removed, inspected, cleaned and reinstalled. The most common reasons for end seal leaks is due to the use of cork or rubber end seals. Edelbrock does not recommend the use of cork or rubber end seals, we recommend a ¼” bead of silicone to be used in place of the end seals. If silicone was used, then more than likely the surfaces were not cleaned properly. Be sure the block and manifold end seal surface is very clean, using lacquer thinner clean both surfaces. Be sure to let the silicone cure overnight before the engine is started to ensure the silicone has had time to cure and seal up. If your engine has an oil sending unit located on the end seal surface, be sure it’s not the oil sending unit leaking where it threads into the block thread sealant should be used on the oil sending unit.

If your engine will not start and only backfires, then this in more than likely an ignition problem or a large vacuum leak. If your distributor was removed to install the intake manifold, then you must be sure the distributor is installed correctly not 180° out. If your distributor is installed correct, then double check your firing order. Ignition would be the most common thing to cause the engine backfire, if everything checks out start double checking all your vacuum lines and connections. Be sure end seals were not used, this can allow the intake to not seal properly. Also, be sure all dowel pins were removed if engine is equipped with intake dowels. The Edelbrock intake manifolds do not have any provisions to receive dowel pins and if not removed will not allow intake to seal properly.

Sealer should have been used on the first few threads of the intake manifold bolts. Bolts that go into an oil galley/lifter valley or into a water jacket will require the use of sealer on the bolts threads. If not done the oil/coolant will ladder up the intake manifold bolt threads and pool up on the intake manifold.

One of the more common reasons an engine would run hot after an intake manifold installation is due to air in the cooling system. Get the front end of the vehicle up in the air using some wheel ramps. With the engine cold remove the radiator cap and start the engine for a couple minutes. Doing this will work the air pockets out of the cooling system. Be sure the thermostat was installed properly also. Things to also consider for a hot running engine. Be sure ignition timing is set correct and be sure the carburetor calibration is correct.

An easy way to plug the oil filler tube is to use a 1-1/4” freeze plug along with some Loctite, or RTV silicone.

If your PCV is sucking a lot of oil, then more than likely the PCV is not baffled. Remove the PCV valve, you should see a shield/baffle below the hole where the PCV is located. If there is no shield/baffle, then one will need to be installed to resolve this problem.

It’s very common for the intake manifold port to be smaller than the head intake ports entries. This helps keep the air velocity up and helps with throttle response. In racing applications, it’s common to port-match the manifold to match the cylinder head port entry or opening, for peak performance. In street applications, the only time port matching your intake manifold to the cylinder heads is recommended is if your operating range exceeds the manifolds range, or on large displacement engine combos.

Because of the valve cover break back on L-98 heads and the extra material on the Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap for port matching, it can be common to have an interference problem. To solve this a 45° break needs to machined at the top of the intake flange to allow for clearance.

The GM Fast burn heads have dual bolt patterns, one for Vortec pattern and one for 1986 and earlier bolt pattern intake manifolds. The standard Vortec design intake manifolds fit the GM Fast burn heads without a problem. Not the same case for the 1986 and earlier bolt pattern intakes, the conventional port location intakes can’t be used on fast burn heads. If you would like to use the 1986 and earlier intake manifold, it must be a high port design/raised runner design.

Nitrous oxide is a cryogenic gas composed of two nitrogen molecules bonded to one oxygen molecule, hence, the chemical name of N2O. It stays in liquid form under pressure and converts to a gaseous state when released into the atmosphere. Being 36% oxygen by weight, nitrous oxide is considered to be an oxidizer, not a fuel, and is non-flammable by itself. Because nitrous oxide is a cryogenic gas, the same safety methods in handling dry ice apply to nitrous. Direct contact with the skin will cause a burn similar to contact with dry ice. Nitrous Oxide is offered for sale in two common grades, which are U.S.P., and Nytrous Plus. U.S.P. nitrous oxide is medical grade nitrous oxide. Its common use is dental and veterinary anesthesia as well as use as a propellant in food such as canned whip cream.

U.S.P. is not available to the public and would provide no advantage in the making of horsepower over the automotive grade nitrous oxide. Nytrous Plus was specifically designed for automotive consumption and differs from U.S.P. in that it contains trace amounts of sulfur dioxide (100 parts per million or “PPM”) added to prevent substance abuse. The Sulfur Dioxide is an irritant to all of your breathing passageways and will cause sore throats and sore nasal passages. Nytrous Plus was specifically created for automotive applications and is available for sale to the public at many speed shops across the USA and abroad.

As stated before, nitrous oxide is an oxidizer. An oxidizer supports combustion by supplying additional oxygen. Initially, the nitrous doesn’t help the process. This is because as long as the one oxygen molecule is bonded to the two nitrogen molecules, the oxygen isn’t free to aid combustion at all. Only after they’ve been exposed to the heat of the combustion process will the chemical bond be broken (the bond breaks around 570 degrees), allowing the free oxygen molecule to then contribute to the combustion process. Additional fuel is added along with the nitrous to maintain a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio. The end result is more horsepower being created pretty much the same way a blower or turbocharger does.

Bottle pressure is one of the most important factors in tuning a nitrous oxide system. Many people feel that if a bottle is full then the pressure must be right, however, that isn’t always true. Pressure has a direct relationship to temperature. A full bottle can vary from 750 to 1200 psi depending of the method used to fill the bottle. All Edelbrock nitrous systems are tuned utilizing liquid nitrous, which is denser than gaseous nitrous as well as more stable. Nitrous becomes a liquid at a temperature of –127°F at atmospheric pressure. Since this temperature is nearly impossible to sustain and there would be no pressure to carry the nitrous where it needs to go, we use the alternate method to change the phase to a liquid by pressurizing it to a level of 735 psi or greater, ideally 950 psi. At 950 psi nitrous has a density of 5.44 lb/gal., bottle pressure is more stable and can easily be sustained with the use of a bottle heater. Many people also feel that running pressure greater than 950 psi will generate much higher flow of nitrous, however, this is not the case.

Figure 1 below illustrates the relationship between bottle temperature and bottle pressure. Note that as volume decreases it is harder to maintain pressure and a bottle heater can help ensure better consistency. A consistent bottle pressure provides a consistent amount of nitrous delivered during a given period of time. It’s also good practice to top off the bottle when it reaches a volume of less than 40%. Although a pressure of 950 psi can be achieved at almost any volume, the problem is that the pressure drop will be much greater than when a bottle is full, and consistency can be affected.

When we set the timing on a car we are actually finding the point in which the engine will initiate the burn so that at about 15° After Top Dead Center (ATDC) peak cylinder pressure can occur. Depending on combustion chamber design and cylinder filling, this point can be anywhere between 30° and 45° Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The reason we retard timing with nitrous injection is that the air charge becomes more oxygen dense, causing the air/fuel mixture to burn at a much higher rate. In other words, accelerated combustion occurs. This acceleration in combustion causes peak cylinder pressure to happen much earlier. The problem with this is that instead of using the energy generated by combustion to give the piston momentum we are transferring that heat energy onto the rotating and reciprocating assemblies, and possibly hurting them. In the process we are losing torque and horsepower. To prevent this, we recommend that you retard the ignition timing 1-1/2° to 2° for every 50 hp added through the nitrous system. This will ensure that peak cylinder pressure occurs at the same point it did before the nitrous was injected into an engine. Also keep in mind that retarding too much timing will also hurt you. If you retard more than the recommended amount, peak cylinder pressure can occur much later in the combustion cycle and that energy will be wasted. In most cases, avoid aftermarket chips or computers that are not designed for use with nitrous. They typically add more ignition timing, which could lead to power loss and engine damage.

The last frequently misunderstood factor in adapting a nitrous system to your engine is the spark plug. Three important aspects of spark plugs must be looked at: their heat range, reach and gap. We advise lowering the heat range of your spark plugs 1 step for every 100 hp added with nitrous. The other aspects of a plug that must be looked at are the reach and gap. It is best to use a non-projected type plug. Projected plugs allow a greater portion of the electrode to be exposed to combustion gases and possibly cause pre-ignition. The spark plug gap also plays a large roll in nitrous engine performance, because increased cylinder pressure from the additional nitrous and fuel makes it harder for the spark to jump the gap. The same gap that worked for a non-nitrous set-up may be too much for nitrous, leading to excessive misfires and loss of power. Also, we recommend that you do not use platinum plugs. The platinum tips can get extremely hot and will cause detonation. Plus, there is a chance the tip may break off in cases of mild detonation and can severely damage the engine.

Ideally a gap between .025" and .035" should be used on high horsepower applications where an inductive style ignition system is utilized. Engines equipped with capacitive discharge ignition systems may use gaps larger than .035". It’s very important to learn how to read the plugs after a pass. A plug can tell you a lot of what is happening in the combustion chamber.

A common and often overlooked problem is insufficient fuel pressure. For nitrous applications we must determine if your fuel sytem is adequate for the task. Most modifications will be fine on factory fuel delivery systems. On highly modified engines that horsepower levels exceed 40% over the manufacturer rated hp level, modifications like the addition of an in-line booster pump or dedicated fuel system is recommended. The purpose of a booster pump is to work in conjunction with the stock pump and maintain a more consistent fuel pressure. The booster pump allows the factory pump to provide its maximum volume capacity; the booster pump then increases the fuel pressure. In racecar applications with a direct port nitrous system or wet nitrous system, a dedicated fuel system is recommended. A dedicated fuel system consists of a fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and feed line to the fuel solenoid. The purpose of a dedicated fuel system is to provide fuel enrichment for the nitrous system independent of the primary fuel system. A dedicated fuel system offers a greater degree of tune-ability and eliminates problems that might arise from sharing a fuel pump with the engine.

With all nitrous oxide applications, forged pistons are highly recommended. Because of heightened potential for detonation, cast pistons are more prone to failure and cannot handle horsepower increases over 125 hp. Never initiate your nitrous system before you are at full-load, wide-open throttle conditions. Cast pistons will not be able to survive this kind of stress.

With a dual-plane intake manifold you should not exceed 175HP shot of nitrous through a plate system. If a larger than 175hp shot is used with a dual-plane intake is used you will start to have distribution issues and could potentially damage your engine. A single plane intake manifold should be used for higher horsepower nitrous plate applications or if a dual-plane intake must be used switch to a direct port nitrous system.

With a Edelbrock wet plate system there is no need to recalibrate the carburetor. With a wet plate system, the extra fuel is supplied through the plate.

As a general rule, do not exceed 6% fuel pressure drop when the nitrous system is activated. For example, if the OEM states that 45 psi is an acceptable fuel pressure for a given vehicle, the fuel pressure drop seen when the nitrous system is activated should be no more than 2.7 psi on EFI-equipped vehicles. On carbureted applications with 7.5 psi, a drop of no more than .5 psi is acceptable

Always use Teflon paste on all pipe fittings. Never use any kind of thread sealant on taper seal fittings like a jet fitting, or bottle line connections.

We do not offer a jet map for the lower bottle pressures. Always keep your bottle pressure between 900 and 950 psi when using the nitrous system. Yes, there are racers that use different pressures, but the testing we did here at Edelbrock to ensure the jetting maps within our manual are correct and was done in this pressure range. Use any higher pressure than 950 psi and you will be lean. Use any pressures below 900 psi and you will be rich. Edelbrock offers a bottle heater to help maintain bottle pressure in colder weather #72700.

The general rule of nitrous as it relates to ignition timing should be to retard the “Total” advance number approximately 2 degrees for every 50 HP increase when using nitrous oxide. It is always best to start with your engines best total timing (without nitrous) and reduce total timing from there. Use an initial timing retard setting that is at least 2-4 degrees more retarded than you expect to be the best setting for your application. All stated timing adjustments listed in jet maps is where the motor being tested worked best.

We advise lowering the heat range of your spark plugs 1 step for every 100 hp added with nitrous. As a cautionary measure Edelbrock would still recommend using 1 step colder spark plugs with a 50 shot of nitrous.

Ideally a gap between .025" and .035" should be used on high horsepower applications where an inductive style ignition system is utilized. Engines equipped with capacitive discharge ignition systems may use gaps larger than .035". It’s very important to learn how to read the plugs after a pass. A plug can tell you a lot of what is happening in the combustion chamber.

Always keep your bottle pressure between 900 and 950 psi. Yes, there are racers that use different pressures, but the testing we did here at Edelbrock to ensure the jetting maps within this manual are correct, was done in this pressure range. Use any higher pressure than 950 psi and you will be lean. Use any pressures below 900 psi and you will be rich.

Always ensure you have between 6 and 6.5 psi of fuel pressure every time you enable your nitrous system. We used 6 to 6.5 psi of fuel pressure to perform our jet map testing on this system. If you do not have at least 6 psi of fuel pressure going to the fuel solenoid, when it is activated, you will be lean. If you were to have more than 6.5 psi of fuel pressure, when it is activated, to the fuel solenoid, you would be rich.

If the bottle is mounted inside the passenger compartment or in a space that has access to the passenger compartment such as hatchbacks or vehicles that feature fold down rear seats, the pressure relief device (PRD valve) must be vented externally from the cockpit. To do this use Edelbrock Nitrous blow down tube #72960 and Racer safety blow-off adaptor #72961. These kits will work on Edelbrock 10, 15 and 20-lb. bottles. This procedure will prevent the passenger compartment from filling with a cloud of nitrous oxide, should the safety pressure relief valve rupture. Special consideration should be made to protect the bottle installation by not placing the bottle in a known crumple or crash zone within the vehicle. At no time should the bottle be mounted within the seating area of the passenger compartment of a street-driven vehicle.

With the Edelbrock plate system we recommend setting the fuel pressure flowing through the plate. To do this have the plate over a bucket or cookie sheet activate the fuel system and adjust pressure regulator until the desired pressure is achieved flowing through the plate. If this method is not used you may see a pressure drop when the fuel is flowing through the plate during the use of the nitrous system.

First you need to verify the bottle pressure is between 900-950 p.s.i. and your fuel pump pressure is between 6-6.5 p.s.i. If the bottle or fuel pump pressure is off it can definitely cause a surge. Next check all fuel filters and fuel delivery. Double check spark plug gap, the gap should be between .025” & .035”, if the spark plug gap is too great then the spark could blow out due to the higher cylinder pressures. Take the spray bar plate off and check the spray pattern off the plate, to be sure you don’t have a blockage in the spray bars. Be sure your nitrous bottle is full and be sure the mounting of the bottle is correct.

The solenoids are reverse polarity so it does not matter what wire is hooked to ground or power.

Bottle placement is critical to the performance of your nitrous system. It is important to understand how the bottle valve and siphon tube are assembled to properly orient the bottle in your vehicle and ensure that it picks up liquid nitrous while undergoing acceleration. All nitrous bottles are assembled so that the bottom of the siphon tube is at the bottom of the bottle and opposite of the bottle label.

An Edelbrock nitrous bottle cannot be mounted upside-down. Edelbrock does not offer a non-siphon tube bottle for automotive use. If the bottle must be mounted parallel to the axles of the vehicle (sideways), the valve handle and label must be angled at approximately 45 degrees toward the front of the vehicle. This orientation will position the siphon tube toward the rear and pointing to the lower rear facing quadrant of the bottle. All of this positioning information is critical to system operation. It is important to draw as much liquid nitrous as possible. The siphon tube cannot do this unless the bottle is positioned correctly.

The most efficient mounting is the lay-down position with the valve handle toward the front of the vehicle and the bottle label facing up. This position allows the greatest amount of liquid to be used before the siphon tube begins to pick up gaseous nitrous oxide.

The jet fittings are color-coded for use with nitrous (blue) and fuel (red). The red fitting faces the front of the engine and the blue fitting faces the rear. The plate has been etched indicating which of the gasket surfaces face upward. Look at the brass tubes, a properly oriented plate will have the nitrous tube above the fuel tube ensuring the angled orifices machined into the tube face orient to the floor of the intake manifold.

Edelbrock recommends the use a flow tool such as the Edelbrock #76506 flow tool. The Edelbrock Flow Test Tool is designed to measure the “flowing fuel pressure” of a nitrous system to ensure that you have adequate fuel pressure when your nitrous system is operating. This tool uses the same jets as your nitrous system and eliminates the hassle of having to convert to other manufacturer jets.

1. From the Jet Selection Chart determine what jet you will need to use for your particular application.
2. Place the jet in the Flare Jet to 4AN adapter and thread it into the Flow Tool Body making sure not to over-torque the fitting.
3. Attach one side of the 6AN S/S braided line to the nitrous systems fuel pressure regulator. Attach the other end to the Flow Tool Body.
4. Attach one side of the -4AN S/S braided line to the Flare Jet Adapter on the flow tool body. Insert the other end into the filler port of the vehicle’s fuel cell if accessible or into a fuel container to recover the fuel being used for testing.
5. Turn on the dedicated pump and monitor the fuel pressure as it flows through the gauge. Loosen the regulator adjustment lock nut and turn the adjustment screw up or down to set the appropriate flowing fuel pressure (Note: If the fuel regulator has a vacuum reference, disconnect the vacuum). Tighten the adjustment screw locking nut.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for every jet change performed to the system.

The main benefit of a direct port nitrous system is the ability to tune individual cylinders. The direct port systems are also capable of supplying a bigger shot of nitrous over a plate system.

The main benefit of a Nitrous plate system is ease of installation, no plumming of hard lines and easier to make jet changes. A nitrous plate system will give you a harder hit off the line in comparison to a direct port system.

With a wet nitrous system, the fuel and nitrous are supplied through the nitrous system. One of the more common ways to do this is through a nitrous plate. The plate injects both nitrous and additional fuel using one nitrous spray bar and one fuel spray bar. Both sides are metered by tuning jets as they’re sprayed into the incoming air charge. With a dry nitrous system, the nitrous is metered by tuning jets and injected through a dry nozzle (no fuel) into the incoming air charge. The nitrous system interfaces with the EFI system and increases fuel flow to the existing fuel injectors when the system is armed and triggered.

In most cases you should not have nitrous engaged for more than a ¼ mile run or about 15 seconds.

For nitrous applications running over a 100 shot of nitrous, an aftermarket high performance ignition system is required.

It’s not a requirement to run a purge valve kit for non-competition use, but the purge valve kit has benefits. The Purge Valve Kit is designed to vent gaseous nitrous to the atmosphere to fill the nitrous feed line with liquid nitrous for a better nitrous charge when the nitrous system is in use. This will give you more consistent nitrous passes and is a must for competition use. Be sure the nitrous purge line is mounted on the vehicle so the spray direction is not pointed in a direction which could fill the passenger compartment with nitrous oxide.

Running a fuel pressure switch is not required but would be highly recommended. It’s nice knowing if you do have a problem with the fuel system pressure the nitrous will disengage before engine damage occurs.

To enter the options menu, hold down the ENTER button after turning on the unit. The display will blink several times then display RELEASE. When the button is released you will be in the options menu. Use the function button to go through the options.

If your progressive controller’s active display flashes on and off or resets itself during operation causing the vehicle to surge, it may be caused by electromagnetic interference generated by the engine’s ignition system or other vehicle components.

Do not mount the progressive controller anywhere near ignition components or any other source of electronic noise. If you have difficulty isolating the controller from RF/EM interference, it may help to mount the controller in the rear portion of the interior as far from the firewall, ignition components, and wiring harnesses as possible. Controller should be mounted on flexible rubber mounts or Velcro to assure the housing is not in contact with the vehicle chassis or other common ground plane.

Static suppression ignition wires and resistor type spark plugs are highly recommended for use with this controller.

If your progressive controller’s active display flashes on and off or resets itself during operation causing the vehicle to surge, it may be caused by electromagnetic interference generated by the engine’s ignition system or other vehicle components.

No battery or power connection is needed to retain the controllers parameter settings. There is no need to re-program the controller after the battery is disconnected. There is NO internal battery, all data is stored in flash memory and will be retained for up to 10 years with no power applied to the controller.

Controllers with build date 05/07 and later.

1. To enter Frequency menu hold down the ENTER button after the turning on the unit.
2. The display will blink several times then display RELEASE. When the button is released you will be in the OPTIONS menu.
3. Use the FUNCTION button to go through the options. The Pulse Frequency setting is one past “EXIT”.
4. Pressing the ENTER button will advance the pulse Frequency setting by one each time the button is pressed. If the user goes past 30 it will start back over at 11 and start counting up again.
5. Once the desired frequency has been set press the FUNCTION button to go back around to EXIT and then press ENTER. This will put you in the main menu.

The Edelbrock progressive controller can’t be rebuild it is a sealed unit. The unit can be tested here at Edelbrock but can’t be rebuilt.

Edelbrock top end kits that are rated under 400hp can use the factory stall speed torque converter. Top end kit that produce more than 400hp, a 2,500 stall speed torque converter is recommended.

Edelbrock recommends stock ratio rocker arms to be used with Edelbrock top end kits. The use of higher ratio rocker arms will change the listed cam specs. Another problem with a higher ratio rocker arm is the added load on the camshaft lobe. The higher ratio rocker arms will put more load on the cam lobe and can cause premature cam failure.

Do not allow the engine to run under 2000 rpm for the first 1/2 hour. Slow idle speeds may result in severe cam and lifter wear. Start the engine and bring to break-in rpm. During the break-in period, it best to continuously fluctuate the engine speed between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM’s. This will help ensure the lifters keep spinning in the lifter bore.

E-STREET TOP END KITS deliver entry-level affordable street performance and great driveability from idle to 5,500 rpm. They include a Performer/EPS intake manifold, E-Street cylinder heads, Performer hydraulic flat tappet camshaft, pushrods, timing chain, complete bolt kit and an Edelbrock gasket set.

PERFORMER TOP END KITS improve the performance and drivability in the low to mid rpm range. These kits include Performer/EPS intake manifolds, Performer cylinder heads, pushrods and Performer-Plus camshafts. They are intended to make your engine more efficient, with the potential for increased mileage.

PERFORMER RPM TOP END KITS deliver improved performance in street applications in the 1,500 to 6,500 rpm range. They include Performer RPM or RPM Air-Gap intake manifold, Performer RPM cylinder heads, hydraulic cam and lifters, timing chain (in most cases), complete bolt kits and an Edelbrock gasket set.

VICTOR TOP END KITS deliver the ultimate in high performance for street/strip applications. Featuring Victor intake manifolds, E-CNC cylinder heads and Rollin’ Thunder Hydraulic Roller camshafts with aggressive profiles for maximum power while retaining great drivability. All of the performance results below are real results from engine dynamometer tests on factory short blocks.

The Edelbrock Top End Kits come with most of the needed parts. A carburetor will need to be purchased separately. Here is a list of other available part options to add to your build. Engine assembly lube, Gasgacinch, RTV, Zinc additive, water pump, rocker arms, carb studs, carb linkages, air filter, fuel pump, sparkplug wires, water neck, thermostat, Dress-up parts, hose fittings and pipe plugs.

The Edelbrock spark plug wires are not made overseas, they are made right here in the USA.

Max-Fire offers two levels of spark plug wires; Ultra-Spark 500 and Ultra-Spark 50. Ultra-Spark 500 is a great choice for replacing OEM wires and are value priced. They feature high quality leads that deliver 500 ohms of EMI/RFI noise suppression with low resistance. They are ideal for daily drivers and for budget builds, offering the best combination of value and performance. Ultra-Spark 50 spark plug wires are engineered for high performance engines that need all of the voltage they can get for maximum power output. They are made with wire leads that deliver a low 40 ohms of resistance per-foot for maximum EMI/RFI noise suppression. This makes them ideal for engines with aftermarket high performance upgrades that require maximum voltage.

The Edelbrock Ultra Spark 50 spark plug wires can be used with the Edelbrock progressive controller.

Like everything else on your car, spark plug wires need to be checked and require periodic changing. If you want to keep the performance of your engine at the optimal level, we recommend you replace your spark plug wires at the same time you replace your spark plugs. Fouled, damaged, or worn out spark plugs can lead to a variety of engine problems, such as misfires, hard starts, increased emissions, poor fuel economy and reduce acceleration. For most performance vehicles, you should replace your spark plugs every 30,000 miles.

There is no requirement to run any special spark plugs with the Edelbrock Ultra-Spark plug wires.

To test the sparkplug wires requires the use of an ohm meter. With the ohm meter connected to both ends of the sparkplug wires, the meter should read between 40-50 ohms with the Ultra-Spark 50 wires per foot and about 500 ohms per foot with the Ultra-Spark 500 sparkplug wires.

The meter should read between 40-50 ohms with the Ultra-Spark 50 wires per foot and about 500 ohms per foot with the Ultra-Spark 500 sparkplug wires.

Like everything else on your car, spark plug wires need to be checked and require periodic changing. If you want to keep the performance of your engine at the optimal level, we recommend you replace your spark plug wires at the same time you replace your spark plugs. Fouled, damaged, or worn out spark plugs can lead to a variety of engine problems, such as misfires, hard starts, increased emissions, poor fuel economy and reduce acceleration. For most performance vehicles, you should replace your spark plugs every 30,000 miles.

The max temperature rating for the Edelbrock sparkplug wires is 450°.

If you do not feel comfortable performing this installation, it is recommended to have the installation completed by a qualified mechanic. Below are some instructions on how to install the universal spark plug wires.

1. Determine the required length of the spark plug wire being replaced and choose the shortest wire from the kit that is long enough to reach from the distributor to the spark plug. NOTE: Some kits include multiple coil wires. Choose the length appropriate for your application.
2. If necessary, cut the end of the wire to proper length with a side cutter or razor blade.
3. Lubricate the end of the wire with the included silicone, then slide the appropriate boot over the end of the wire. Pull the boot up the wire high enough to allow for stripping tool clearance.
4. Strip at least 1/2” of insulation away from the conductor using a wire stripping tool. DO NOT CUT INTO THE CONDUCTOR! TIP: It is not necessary to cut completely through the insulator in order to strip the wire. Instead, only cut about half way through the insulator, then twist and pull the end off.
5. Trim away any loose strands from the wound conductor with side cutters or razor blade.
6. Fold the conductor back over the insulation and slip the appropriate terminal over the lead. Use a terminal crimping tool to secure the terminal on the wire.
7. Pull the boot over the terminal and make sure the that the terminal is properly seated and aligned in the boot. It may be necessary to lubricate the wire for this step using the included silicone.
8. Check the wire’s continuity with an ohm meter. The meter should read between 40-50 ohms per foot or about 500 ohms per foot depending on the kit purchased. Example: A 36” 50 ohm wire should have a resistance of 120-150 ohms.

No, our stage one and some stage two supercharger systems are designed and tested on completely stock vehicles. The Supplied calibration will not be compatible with any other aftermarket components from the catalytic converters FORWARD. A cat-back exhaust system is acceptable with the supplied calibration.

With the supplied programmer, there is no way to remove the speed limiter.

The Edelbrock powertrain warranty starts the day the vehicle was purchased new from the dealer. Example: if you buy a new Camaro in 2015 the warranty would cover you until 2018.

The calibration supplied with the stage one and some stage two E-Force systems is designed for completely stock vehicles with the exception of a cat-back exhaust. If you plan on keeping the other aftermarket components installed you will need to source your own custom tune. This will void any applicable emissions legality and powertrain warranty from Edelbrock.

Yes, during our testing we have found that once a Superchips Programmer has been installed the ECM (Engine Control Module) will not communicate with any other programmer such as the SCT X4 supplied with the kit. A new ECM must be purchased and installed from the dealership in order to install the required supercharger calibration.

An easy way to determine what belt you need would be to look at the belt and find the part number. If you can’t see the belt part number then the engine might need to be rotated over so the number is visible. Then take the part number to the parts store for the replacement belt. The part numbers is also available in the supplies installation instruction binder that you received with your supercharger. If you can’t find the part number contact Edelbrock Tech Department for further assistance.

For emissions legality and to maintain the free powertrain warranty (if applicable) the supercharger kit CANNOT be modified from its originally supplied configuration. The pulley can be changed but Edelbrock will NOT supply a supporting calibration.

The self-contained oil system has a 100,000 mile service interval.

The supercharger unit will have to come off the engine to perform the oil change. The self-contained oil system has a 100,000 mile service interval.

No, a standard 50/50 blended coolant is all that is needed for the intercooler system. Ideally you will want to use a coolant color in the intercooler system that is the opposite the engine coolant. In the event of a coolant leak this will simplify determining whether the engine or intercoolers system is leaking. Also, if you are in an area where freezing temperatures are not an issue then a 80/20 mix (water/coolant) is recommended for better heat dissipation.

With the engine running remove the cap from the intercooler tank and observe the flow of the coolant. If the coolant is circulating then the pump is operational. DO NOT remove the cap from the reservoir while the engine is HOT or OFF.

There are a lot of variables that can affect boost numbers like elevation, temperature, humidity and engine modifications. E-force superchargers provide the most power at the lowest amount of boost, resulting in performance that is safe to operate on a completely stock engine.

The actuator can be tested using a handheld vacuum pump. Never manipulate the actuator by hand as this can cause damage to the diaphragm. Hook the vacuum pump to the nipple on actuator and create some vacuum. If the vacuum level is not held and it drops then the diaphragm is torn. If the actuator holds the vacuum, then the actuator is working properly.

If the supercharger belt keeps coming off then more than likely there is an alignment issue or the wrong length belt was used. Double check all your pulley alignment if the supercharger pulley is slightly off, then in some cases the supercharger bolts need to be loosened that secure the unit to the heads and shift the supercharger forward or back to get better alignment.

If you just had a supercharger kit installed at a shop and the check engine light is on now, we would recommend taking the vehicle to the shop that installed it to have further testing done. Or if that is not an option, pull the engine codes and contact Edelbrock tech support for further assistance.

Installing an aftermarket power adder like an Edelbrock supercharger will normally void your powertrain warranty. For this reason, Edelbrock offers a 3-year 36,000 mile powertrain warranty free of charge. That’s how confident we are in the reliability of the Edelbrock supercharger.

The Eaton rotor groups supplied with the E-Force supercharger systems are intended to run “Dry”. If you would like to install methanol injection it is ideal to run a port style system after the rotor group. The use of methanol injection will void the supercharger and the powertrain warranty if eligible.

The tune for the street supercharger kit is not compatible with a cold air intake system. If you chose to install the cold air intake system a custom tune will be needed, and not available through Edelbrock. This will also not be emissions legal and will void powertrain warranty if eligible.

The only change that can be made from stock would be a cat back system with the Edelbrock street supercharger tune.

No other parts are required to install an Edelbrock street supercharger kit. All our tunes and testing are done with factory vehicles.

To be eligible for the powertrain warranty the supercharger must be installed at one of the following. New car dealer, Edelbrock certified installer, Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) Certified Technician at licensed automotive repair facility.

All the Edelbrock application specific kits are designed to fit under the factory hood.

The air filters that are supplied in the Edelbrock supercharger kit are reusable. The Edelbrock air filter cleaning kit can be use #43600.

The Edelbrock supercharger is one of the quieter roots style superchargers on the market. The Edelbrock supercharger will give you quiet operation and excellent throttle response.

Designed and cast at the Edelbrock Foundry and machined at Edelbrock’s manufacturing facility in the USA, Edelbrock water pumps are the best in quality and performance. Edelbrock Victor Series water pumps provide maximum cooling for the street and the race track. They’re ideal to prevent overheating in street rods and street machines, as well as in tow rigs and motorhomes. Using state-of-the-art racing technology, Edelbrock has designed these “super cooling” water pumps to provide maximum flow, maximum pressure and equal distribution to both sides of the block within 1%. Available for most popular applications, these high-performance pumps flow in only one direction for optimum efficiency. The casting’s computer-designed internal passages and precision powdered metal impeller produce the maximum flow rate possible.

Edelbrock recommends the use of RTV silicone to ensure a good water pump gasket seal.

Most of today’s coolant will be compatible with the Edelbrock Water Pump. Just be sure the coolant is designed to be used with aluminum engine components. If you do not by the premixed coolant be sure you mix the coolant with 50% DISTILLED water.

The use of aftermarket (non-OEM) fan spacers are not recommended and will void the warranty of the water pump. Incorrect alignment or an unbalanced condition puts excessive strain on the pump’s shaft and/or bearing and will result in early failure of the shaft and/or bearing. The balance of the assembly depends primarily upon the concentricity of the fan clutch with the pump shaft. Concentricity is not assured when universal type clutches are used. The universal fan clutch has a 3/4” pilot hole, so an adapter must be used when installing a water pump with a 5/8” shaft. This adapter bushing is supplied with the Fan Clutch. These adapter bushings add to the machine tolerances of the assembly, so special care must be taken to maintain concentricity with the shaft and the clutch fan.

It is not uncommon to see a couple drops of coolant out of the water pump weep hole until the seal seats properly. If the water would have continued to leak from the weep hole then that would be a problem.

If coolant is dripping continuously from the Edelbrock water pump weep hole, then the water pump seal is bad. The water pump should be replaced or sent into Edelbrock for a rebuild.

Some Edelbrock racing water pumps use AN style fitting and do not require any sealant on the threads for the auxiliary fittings, they seal up with an O-ring. Other Edelbrock water pumps use NPT style fittings and Teflon paste should be used on the first couple threads of the auxiliary fittings.

Be sure you have the correct rotation water pump for your application. One of the more common reasons an engine would run hot after a water pump installation is due to air in the cooling system. Get the front end of the vehicle up in the air using some wheel ramps. With the engine cold remove the radiator cap and start the engine for a couple minutes. Doing this will work the air pockets out of the cooling system, refill coolant as needed. Be sure the thermostat was installed correctly also.

From looking at the front of the engine determine what direction your water pump is rotating. If the pump is rotating clockwise then your pump is a standard rotation. If the pump is rotating counterclockwise you need a reverse rotation water pump. Engines that use factory V-belts are normally standard rotation. Engines that use factory serpentine belt systems are normally reverse rotation.

There is no requirement to use a high flow thermostat with an Edelbrock water pump. A standard off the shelf thermostat will work fine. Edelbrock also offers a full line of quality thermostats that will meet your needs.

If the new water pump does not line up with your current pulley configuration, then you have the incorrect water pump. If you have the old water pump measure from the sealing surface to the hub where the fan would mount too. Now compare that measurement to the hub height listed in the Edelbrock water pump section.